The first French surfer to establish herself permanently at the highest international level, Johanne Defay built her career in a demanding environment, where women often face more obstacles. In this article, she reflects on her journey, the challenges she encountered, the occasional lack of support, and the disparities that still exist in the sport. She also discusses what drives her: the support of those close to her, the desire to progress, and the conviction that it is possible to be an athlete, a woman, and a mother without having to compromise. An inspiring account of the reality faced by many female athletes today.
Johanne Defay, who are you?
I'm 31 years old, a professional surfer, and soon to be a mom!
How would you describe your childhood?
I would describe my childhood as peaceful, loving, barefoot, bottom in the sand under the tropical sun in Reunion.
Was there a defining moment that made surfing your career? Tell us about it.
No, there wasn't a turning point. More of a process where I realized I was ticking more and more boxes to get there. High-level sport is a gamble, especially in a discipline like surfing. I followed my passion, made sacrifices for it, I was supported at the right times by my family and loved ones, and in the long run, it paid off. But in sport, it's difficult to know if you're going to get the carrot for all your efforts.
Can you tell us about a difficult moment/period in your career and how you overcame it?
I think the period I experienced with the most injustice was the few years I spent without financial support from a surf brand. At the time, only surf industry brands supported pro surfers, it was harder to diversify, and without financial support, my results had to bring me enough to pay my travel expenses and support me, so the pressure was high. But the hardest part was the injustice because I was already the European number 1, and lower-ranked surfers were more supported than me. During those years, I focused on the essentials: my performances. By training a lot physically, mentally, and technically. I focused on the people who were dear to me and who were there for me when the industry and the surfing world were not. I also sought help outside of surfing with a physical coach who trained triathletes, a mental coach who trained runners, I got out of the surfing world and opened up to others. I think in hindsight that it shaped me, I learned to make my own choices and to take responsibility for them even when no one believes in them.
photo credit CNOSF
In the documentary "Championnes, mamans et alors?", which shows the evolution of the condition of high-level athletes and focuses on the challenge of a motherhood unlike any other, we see that there is still a long way to go to feel free in motherhood as a high-level athlete. What is your view on this?
It's a great documentary and very representative of the disparities that high-level sport can face. We realize that the support is not the same whether your sport is Olympic or not, the infrastructure you are entitled to or not. The fact of not living in Paris, forces you to manage, pregnant or not I think there are disparities depending on the sport. This is based on the budgets allocated to it generally and these depend on the number of licensees, the potential number of Olympic medals etc... you have to fill in boxes. As an athlete and pregnant at the moment, this documentary inspires me a lot, these journeys are really fascinating and it moves me a lot. I hope to be up to the task to also return to the highest level. And it is by showing that it is possible and by sharing these experiences that others will do so in turn. As a surfer, I don't have access to facilities like INSEP (National Institute of Sport) and I have to manage alone with my coach to adapt the training, whether in intensity for the moment or in organization later when my daughter is here. It's also up to us to do our research and create a medical team that is appropriate to my needs, to find the right balance between training and a good pregnancy for the baby's health. In short, we do what we can. It's a gamble and that's fine with me!
What inspires you?
Many things: nature, the careers of athletes and entrepreneurs. I love people who give their all to what they do, who have a strong work ethic and a long-term vision. My husband, for his diligence, his ability to set goals and stick to them, and his values. My mother, for her extreme kindness and her zest for life.
Have you ever made one of your dreams come true?
Yes, very lucky indeed! I'm lucky! But also, I've been able to make a living from my sport for over 14 years. I'm in a healthy and nourishing relationship, even though nothing is always rosy. The chance of becoming a mother is coming soon!
And having cultivated the art of simple pleasures so that like my mother, I have daily joy for many small everyday actions.
Your beauty ritual
I'm not very good at this but these days I use a moisturizing serum especially in countries with high humidity because the creams don't penetrate quickly enough and make us feel hot (in Reunion for example) but when I'm in France on the other hand, I add a moisturizer in addition to my serum because the climate is rather dry. I also use the Nourishing Rose Petal Oil for my belly and pregnant body. And the SPF50+ Sunscreen for my face, every day.