Dr. Sylvie Peres, dermatologist and co-founder of Alaena, answers our questions about combination, oily, and acne-prone skin and shares her tips for finding a gentle, natural beauty routine that works for you.

Are juvenile and late-onset acne the same?

Dr. Sylvie Peres : Not quite. In both cases, excess sebum promotes the multiplication of bacteria that release inflammatory molecules . The sebaceous gland becomes engorged, the skin pores become blocked, which causes dilated pores, blackheads (comedones), deep whiteheads (microcysts), and purulent pimples (pustules and nodules).

At puberty, the very significant hormonal activity is at the origin of a “juvenile and polymorphic” form: the lesions are diverse and multiple: blackheads and whiteheads, nodules and pustules. In adulthood, the hormonal influence is less and its functioning is modulated by environmental factors such as stress, sun, tobacco.

“Late” female acne is inflammatory , on skin that is not necessarily oily. Most often, it is composed of a few scattered elements, which appear cyclically, as a prelude to menstruation. The spots are located more on the chin (sometimes in the form of an inflammatory plaque), the cheeks or around the mouth. Poorly tolerated at this age, “the spots” are traumatized which has the consequence of aggravating the phenomena and promoting scarring.   

In general, the phenomenon of oily skin diminishes with age. From the age of 35 for women and 45 for men, the skin is less oily and returns to normal. After the age of 55 for women and around 60 for men, the skin becomes dry. As hormonal secretions balance out, combination to oily skin will tend to normalize with age. 

What is combination skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres : Combination skin is defined as a combination of excess sebum in the T-zone and normal to dry skin on the periphery of the face. This is most common between the ages of 20 and 35.

It is recognized because the T zone (middle forehead, nose, wing of the nose, chin) has an irregular skin texture , visible and dilated pores or even a little acne, while the cheeks have normal skin or feelings of tightness and discomfort.

It is important to apply care products capable of stabilizing the medial sebum level while preserving the hydration of the cheeks.

What is oily skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres : Its texture is irregular, the pores are dilated and visible. It is a shiny skin, prone to imperfections , difficult to live with on a daily basis.

Aggravating factors are:

- tobacco: it disrupts hormonal balance by increasing androgens which are a factor in hyper seborrhea, it makes the skin atonic, promoting sebum retention (comedones, microcysts, dilated pores)

- poor diet: milk and dairy products of animal origin, processed foods with saturated fats and additives, refined cereals

- certain contraceptive pills, hormonal IUDs will also tend to unbalance the skin

- stress and external aggressions (pollution, sun, wind) increase sebum secretion and make the skin shiny

- cosmetic factors: too much oil on the face, thick or rich day cream, but above all the multiplication of thick and layered cosmetics

Simplify, lighten your ritual ! You need to harmonize the skin while respecting its fragile balance , thanks to suitable care products. Between two ages, around 40 years old, the first wrinkles appear, so you are tempted by anti-wrinkle creams but be careful they are often too rich and especially if they contain mineral oils, acrylates and silicones this can be the cause of small acne-like lesions.

What are your tips for treating combination to oily skin?

Dr. Sylvie Peres : I have a holistic view of dermatology. The skin must be considered as a whole, and for this reason, I am committed to a holistic lifestyle :

- practice an outdoor sport regularly

- eliminate milk and dairy products of animal origin, processed foods with saturated fats and additives as well as refined cereals

- favor plant-based milks and whole grains (oat milk, soy yogurt, wholemeal bread, wholemeal pasta, muesli)

- Eat legumes (lentils, chickpeas, split peas, quinoa, beans) twice a week. For maximum skin benefits, buy these foods dried and soak them for 12 to 24 hours before cooking. These foods will restore the intestinal flora, and therefore the skin flora.

- buy everything organic if possible

What beauty ritual should you adopt?

Dr. Sylvie Peres : I recommend exclusively natural products , avoiding any petrochemical ingredients that promote acne.

Step 1: Clean

The first step of the ritual is double cleansing. In the evening, remove makeup from the skin using Cleansing Oil . Apply to slightly damp skin and massage, then rinse. Based on organic plum oil, it removes makeup without leaving a greasy film on the skin.

Then cleanse the face with Mango & Avocado Soap . Cold saponified, it gently cleanses while respecting the hydrolipidic film. Soap is basic, the skin is acidic: it is this pH balance that eliminates excess sebum, impurities and regulates the skin flora.

Finally, spray the Water Mist on your face. This very pure, low-mineral spring water neutralizes the chlorine and limescale in tap water and prevents feelings of tightness.

Step 2: Moisturize

Apply the combination skin moisturizer morning and evening to cleansed skin. It will regulate sebum, mattify the skin all day long, while providing a light hydration necessary for this skin type. Its water green color reduces redness.

Step 3: Correct

Apply the Fruit Acid Peel 2 or 3 times a week. It is used like a mask, applying a thin layer to the affected area for 10 minutes, then rinsing. Apply the anti-blemish solution to the affected area after cleansing and drying. Leave on overnight and rinse off the next morning.

As an emergency treatment, apply the Repair Cream occasionally to an inflamed pimple and throughout the healing process. Its formula, rich in clay and tea tree oil, will purify and detoxify the skin. Tamanu oil and honey will help accelerate cell regeneration.

Step 4: Protect

Avoid unprotected sun exposure. The sun is a false friend to combination skin. While it may seem to improve its condition by drying it out, it causes a rebound afterward, as sebum has accumulated deep down. Favor shade and a hat; if this is not possible, apply SPF50+ very high protection sunscreen .

For makeup, opt if possible for 100% mineral loose powders, if necessary organic fluid foundations, and non-comedogenic products , which will not clog pores and will allow your skin to breathe better.

Still unsure of your skin type? Take your online skin diagnosis and we'll help you understand your skin's needs and find a personalized skincare routine.