How to choose the right products for your skin?
The first fundamental piece of advice to give you is not to trust the packaging!
Too often we make the mistake of trusting claims like "hypoallergenic" or "tested under dermatological control," which have no legal value, and the risk of allergies unfortunately remains very present. We also find on many products the words "with extract of" followed by a learned plant name; we must remain vigilant because this does not always indicate that the product is natural or organic. These falsely reassuring marketing statements in no way indicate the actual content of the composition.
Our second tip is to decipher the INCI lists.
If the first 6 ingredients (about 70% of the product) are to be avoided, then you can put this product back! We have written this article to help you decipher the INCI lists .
Finally, our third and final piece of advice is to be wary of “without”.
Paraben-free, sulfate-free... Conventional cosmetics use it very (too) often, and unfortunately, it doesn't mean much. Aimed at reassuring consumers, the "free" label distracts from the rest of the often risky ingredients in the composition.
What does it mean to have organic certification for a cosmetic?
Unlike food, in cosmetics there is no single AB label to guarantee the 100% organic origin of products because not all the ingredients used can obtain organic certification .
Take water, for example. Most beauty products are made from it, but water cannot be certified organic. To obtain it, the ingredient must be derived from a living organism, such as fruit or essential oils, for example.
This is also the case for minerals such as clays or vitamin C (ascorbic acid) which plays a role as a natural preservative in many products.
Often products are labeled organic even though 100% of their ingredients are not derived from natural products.
And what about labels in all this?
Among all the labels, the one that will guarantee you maximum organic products is the Nature & Progrès label .
To obtain the label, a company must adhere to the Nature & Progrès General Charter concerning environmental, social, economic and human issues.
Animal testing, whether on raw materials or finished products, is prohibited.
This priority depends on available volumes and geographical proximity, always with a view to promoting local exchanges.
The other ingredients are subject to so-called soft chemistry specifications. Soft chemistry must always maintain the original structure of organic carbon, and chemical modifications must be limited to functional groups, in order to preserve the environment and maintain biodegradability.
Why should we be wary of the ISO 16128 standard?
The ISO 16128 standard is neither a label, nor a specification, nor a law. It is a text for harmonizing and structuring markets, in this case the natural and organic cosmetics market. It presents a high risk of misleading consumers, particularly those new to organic cosmetics, because it further fuels confusion by using ambiguous claims on packaging.
According to ISO 16128, an ingredient is considered "naturally derived" if it contains more than 50% natural raw materials. However, a half- natural ingredient is absurd.
Now, silicones, parabens, or the very controversial phenoxyethanol, are classified as “natural ingredients” and yet their transformation process is extremely polluting.
Some brands may thus engage in greenwashing, with the ISO's reputation as a guarantee. Because for an ill-informed consumer, organic origin is necessarily a guarantee of quality...
But then which is best for my skin? Organic or Natural?
The word organic is often misused, and sometimes it's the word natural that's ambiguous. As a consumer, faced with this vagueness, which is particularly prevalent in cosmetics, you must make the effort to understand the difference between these two terms in order to adopt a healthy routine and act better on a daily basis.
An organic cosmetic is made from raw materials that are monitored and controlled, from their planting to their incorporation into the container.
A natural cosmetic is based, to a large extent, on the good faith of the brand and therefore on the relationship of trust which exists between the producer, the distributor and the consumer.
In summary, choosing a good skincare product that doesn't pose a toxic risk to the environment involves, as we've just seen, several steps. Faced with this confusion of terms and these multiple labels, it's important to use common sense and try to read between the lines.
Today, the lack of transparency among brands is forcing us to remain vigilant and take a closer look at the product to decipher its ingredient list. Apps like Yuka, Clean Beauty, and INCI Beauty can be an interesting alternative for understanding the quality of a beauty product.
Organic cosmetics, natural cosmetics, the idea is above all to become aware that in both cases, we can find ourselves faced with products composed of ingredients that are harmful to our health.
Taking care of your skin therefore means choosing transparency, by taking an interest in the brand behind the product and knowing its history, its values, and its intentions towards the consumer.
Remember that the primary goal of a cosmetic brand, when it wants to be healthy and environmentally friendly, necessarily involves a natural approach with a sincere and deep desire to offer effectiveness and safety to consumers.
Alaena and her vision of cosmetics
"It is important for me to start from the Hippocratic oath, Primum non nocere: first do no harm" Sylvie Peres, dermatologist and creator of the Alaena Cosmétique brand.
At Alaena, each product is formulated with exclusively natural ingredients , favoring organic ingredients grown without pesticides or chemicals. We exclude all controversial synthetic ingredients, mineral oils, silicones, endocrine disruptors (parabens, synthetic fragrances, synthetic sunscreens, triclosan), chemical preservatives, PEGs, PPGs, formaldehyde and releasers, phenoxyethanol, and toluene.
We chose glass for our packaging because we favor recyclable packaging for our products.
Each ingredient is carefully selected for its proven performance and affinity with the skin, particularly the rich plant oils and floral waters that serve as excipients.
Our extraction methods preserve the natural qualities of the raw materials , vitamins, antioxidants and essential amino acids.
Alaena products are certified by the European organization ECOCERT Cosmos Organic. This label guarantees a minimum of 95% natural or naturally sourced ingredients, and a minimum of 20% organic ingredients (water cannot be considered organic). Furthermore, only biodegradable ingredients are accepted.
Alaena's personal goal is to maximize the concentration of high-quality organic ingredients in its formulas, beyond the regulatory 50%.
We are convinced that nature can open up the field of possibilities for us to create high-performance cosmetics, for healthy and environmentally friendly beauty.
Article written by Margaux, Alaena team on January 15, 2019