Conventional, natural or organic cosmetics: what’s the difference?
How is a cream made?
A cream is an emulsion of oil and water. Added to this is an emulsifier that helps create a stable emulsion, preservatives, active ingredients, and additives. The cosmetics industry doesn't use the same ingredients to make cosmetics; there are three types: conventional cosmetics, organic cosmetics, and natural cosmetics.
Conventional cosmetics
The majority of products purchased in supermarkets, perfumeries and pharmacies belong to this family but beware of their composition... The water is distilled water and the oil is often a mineral oil derived from petrochemicals. The emulsifier, often PEGs, is also in the vast majority of cases derived from petrochemicals. The preservatives are parabens, triclosans, formaldehydes, phenoxyethanol, increasingly contested for their toxicity (Discover our article Are our cosmetics dangerous part 1). Regarding the active ingredients, ingredients on which marketing is done, they are mostly of synthetic origin. However, to respond to the organic trend, manufacturers often highlight the use of a natural active ingredient (plant extract or vegetable oil) to hide the other synthetic ingredients in the formula.
In most cosmetic products, synthetic additives (colorants, perfumes) are added to transform the product's physical qualities. While promising exceptional benefits, they aren't all that great for the skin.
Organic cosmetics
Organic cosmetics are a booming market. They are sold primarily in organic stores, but also in specialty stores and e-shops. Their composition is much cleaner and more transparent than conventional cosmetics. They are also certified by recognized organizations such as ECOCERT, COSMEBIO, and BDIH (Learn more about the different labels in our article "Tips for Deciphering Cosmetic Labels"). The water is generally spring water or floral water such as rose water or chamomile water, and the oils are of plant origin. There are many vegetable oils , each of which has different benefits, such as jojoba oil (nourishing), plum oil (antioxidant), grape seed oil (regenerating), or borage oil (protective), and they are very well assimilated by the skin, unlike mineral oils. The active ingredients are extracts of fruits, plants, seeds, and beehive products, selected for their richness in antioxidants and vitamins, for example. Thanks to biotechnology, hyaluronic acid can be created by fermenting wheat, and collagen can be extracted from algae, thus making it possible to obtain high-performance natural ingredients.
The emulsifier is of plant origin, such as beeswax. Preservation is achieved through antioxidants such as vitamin E, essential oils, and the use of natural alcohol.
As in conventional cosmetics, additives are added, but in organic cosmetics, these perfumes and colorants are of plant origin.
Be careful, however, with certain natural brands or natural extracts; most of them try to deceive you with dreamy marketing to sell themselves as organic. The evocative names, the packaging with pretty photos of plants, the "paraben-free" claims, are only illusions because they are not certified by recognized organizations. In reality, they are taking advantage of the organic wave, but do not question their formulas containing controversial ingredients.
How to avoid making mistakes when buying cosmetics?
To avoid making a mistake, the easiest way is to buy a certified organic product and trust the label. If the product you want to buy is a natural cosmetic, refer to the INCI list to decipher its ingredients and avoid products containing ingredients on our list of ingredients to be banned.