At Alaena, we harness the power of nature and the excellence of science to deliver high-quality skincare. Using biotechnology, we extract concentrated active ingredients from plants and seeds to create highly effective formulas.
Dr. Sylvie Peres is one of the few dermatologists of her generation to have recognized the dangers of toxic ingredients in cosmetics. The originator of all Alaena formulas, she describes in this article her fascinating work researching innovative natural active ingredients, such as the patented active ingredient COMPLEX G5® and this perpetual challenge of combining safety and effectiveness in its formulas.
Thanks to its dermatological expertise and biotechnological innovation, Alaena develops highly concentrated skincare products, designed for targeted regeneration and long-lasting skin protection.
Tell us about COMPLEX G5®, your patented active ingredient.
Dr. Sylvie Peres: Our active ingredient was developed from the extraction of sprouted seeds. We created complementary combinations of five seeds : chia, flax, wheat, oats, green soybeans, amaranth, and buckwheat. Each seed provides a variety of essential amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidants.
We have patented this active ingredient as well as its extraction process based on green chemistry , without chemical solvents , which meets the specifications of the Ecocert Cosmos Organic organic label.
Discover the COMPLEX G5® selection
Explain to us the principle of germination and how it is useful for the skin?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: With age, the body absorbs less vital nutrients (vitamins and cofactors, antioxidants). Food delivers nutrients through the blood vessels in the dermis. Since the epidermis is not vascularized, we deliver them directly to the surface of the epidermis in the form of biomolecules using sprouted seed extract.
Once sprouted, each seed provides a variety of essential acids and antioxidants, necessary for the skin to flourish. Germination, a symbol of life, increases the level of vitamins, mainly those of the B group, amino acids, in particular prolamins which allow the production of collagen, once sprouted, the seed releases these micro-nutrients, it is a concentrate of life with precious regenerative virtues.
What is the COMPLEX G5® brings to the skin?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: In vitro tests have proven an anti-aging effect on the skin, with an acceleration of cell renewal and an increase in collagen production . Thanks to the action of sprouted seeds, COMPLEX G5® restores the dermo-epidermal barrier , hydrates , and restores radiance to the skin.
What excites you most about this asset research work?
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Dr. Sylvie Peres: I am fascinated by biodiversity. I love discovering new plants, admiring them, being able to recognize them in nature when they are close by, and dreaming of going to see them when they are far away. |
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In my formulation research, I delve into the scientific literature to understand the composition of each plant and its benefits for the skin. Some ingredients have been known for ages, but the extraction biotechnologies available today are exciting ways to increase their effectiveness.
Which assets have impressed you the most in terms of results?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: Each new product is a joy, it is the result of the work of an entire team. In the treatment of acne, I usually prescribe a compound based on retinoic acid. Its effectiveness is recognized, but it is not available in cosmetics, only in medicine.
I then did a lot of research to find plants with comparable action. I selected a complex of flower acids, fruit acids, and celandine extract for a retinoid-like effect, a natural and effective alternative to retinol, and I was amazed by the results! These cutting-edge natural active ingredients are very interesting for cell renewal and the stimulation of elastic tissue.
Discover the Anti-Imperfection Solution , the retinoid-like treatment from the Alaena range.
How does it work on the skin?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: The solution works by stimulating cell renewal, which helps exfoliate the skin, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve overall skin texture. It's also effective at treating blemishes by unclogging pores and reducing sebum production.
What are your selection criteria for the ingredients in your formulas?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: First of all, I define the skin problem I want to target, then I identify the treatment areas and the needs of the skin or hair. After listing the desired benefits, I delve into biodiversity and read multiple scientific publications to select the most effective plants and seeds. This is followed by either the development of our patented active ingredients or a search for suppliers who will respect our specifications, in particular the extraction methods , and offer proven results.
What are the difficulties encountered in this formulation process?
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"It is a constant challenge to find active ingredients that meet our safety and efficacy requirements." |
Dr. Sylvie Peres: I sometimes identify a very interesting plant in the bibliography, but it doesn't exist as a cosmetic active ingredient. This is a new adventure that opens up to us: developing our own active ingredients and defining their extraction method, as we did for sprouted seed extracts.
What is the “Botox-like” effect?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: The "Botox-like" effect refers to products or treatments that simulate the effects of Botox, without containing botulinum toxin (the active ingredient in Botox). Botox is primarily used to smooth wrinkles by temporarily paralyzing the muscles responsible for contractions, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
When we talk about a "Botox-like" effect, this generally refers to ingredients or treatments that have a similar effect on the skin
Which formulas have this effect in Alaena?
Dr. Sylvie Peres: At Alaena, Acmella olacera is a tropical plant also known as Bréde mafane with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anesthetic, and muscle-relaxing properties. This gives it a smoothing and plumping effect.
We also find baobab extract in our formulas. A powerful natural active ingredient that combines organic acids with kerato-regulating and smoothing properties, for a tightening and moisturizing effect . The simultaneous contribution of these molecules and sugars smooths the surface of the epidermis and restores the natural water flow allowing the baobab extract its instant botox-like effect.
Botox-like selection
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